Egypt! Part 1

There are some trips that my wife Jessica suggests that I have reservations over. Egypt was one of them. For the longest I was content to sarcastically refer it to "Durka-durka land" and pass it off as being a dangerous unrealistic trip. But despite this and because I love her very much we went anyway-risking our perceived health and wellness. And after being there, I can say that half-cocked impression is mostly bunk despite some rather horrible timing. Egypt is relatively cosmopolitan and modern by most measures. There are some stark contrasts in terms of technological and cultural standards that vary from block to block. But then that's not much different in Memphis either.

And unlike most of Memphis, Egyptians are friendly and, much to my surprise, English speaking. We didn't even need to exchange currency.

First up, Mosques and Muslims.

One of the concerns, beyond being American, about going to Egypt was that we were Christian- Catholic Christian. And American Catholics seemed to be the bedeviled icon of most middle east propaganda.
Abstaining from screaming "AMERICA FUCK YAH!" (Jessica's idea mind you) seemed prudent let alone doing anything else to stir a millennial old pot of religious wars.
This perceived threat was somewhat unfounded. Every Muslim I talked to was incredibly open, friendly, and knowledgeable of Christian tradition. Our shared heritage was certainly not forgotten either. Hearing about the Muslim variations of the Old Testament was actually quite enjoyable and brought a considerable amount of understanding to the pilgrimage to Mecca and the religious rights performed there. I dare say it was enlightening and had they caught my mind at a more impressionable stage I might have shown more interest. I'll leave researching our heritage as an exercise to the reader. I don't think I can do it proper justice within this context.
It is worth note that the Muslim religion seems to be as divided as Christianity is- complete with idiotic sub sets and ideologies. Though I didn't notice a Muslim version of "Mormons" so maybe they are better off.

They also seemed quick to apologize about the "extremist" members of their religion as well. When brought up, It came off as a sore point; as though they were little more than the Muslim equivalent of red necks.

Surprisingly enough, Egypt isn't strictly Muslim. 15% of the population is a division of Christianity I had not heard of prior, Coptic Christian. They seem as Catholic as any, just a different pope. Aside from the first (which is one of many random churches), the above pictures are of a fortress monastery that was built in the 3rd century. What started as a church soon needed walls as the Roman empire receded and the locals began having trouble with the local Bedouin barbarians.
So they slowly turned the "church" into an armed fort. Altogether it was most impressive.

Pyramids. They were big.

This is something that I feel would be hard to impress upon. Their bigness is almost unmatched. They are literally man made mountains of finely crafted rocks full of hidden caverns and chambers. I came to Egypt somewhat jaded about them, thinking them as little more than a photo opportunity against some old rocks and conveniently preserved history.

Reality was they were far more impressive and majestic in person. Though we weren't allowed to take photos, you are even allowed to go into the pyramids. Which is something I highly recommend. The largest pyramid was just hacked into from the side by treasure hunters (as you can see).

The second smaller one had a few blocks strategically removed to reveal the passage way into the pharaoh's chamber.

Now when I think of the tombs and dungeons romantically described in fantasy literature, I think of it as just that, the musings and romantic inclinations of a fiction author that have no base in reality.

Oh, how I was pleasantly surprised that they actually exist in some form. The hall way for the second pyramid extends for about a foot ball field or so in declination at about 40 degrees. It levels off for about another 30 feet before ascending easily the length of another foot ball field into the pharaoh's chamber- which itself is the size of my house. All the while there are plenty of adjoining blocked off halls that go up(!), down, and breaching into the darkness of either side.
All of this mind you is hewn from smooth blocks and barely lit by the occasional fluorescent lamp. The air was stagnant and nearly unbreathable as well from poor ventilation and the many visitors...

That experience alone is... hard to describe in one sitting but nonetheless awesome.